Churches of Verona

by Carole Holt

If someone said to me "You have 6 months to look at all the churches of Verona, would you be bored?" I could honestly say no. The old saying 'I just don't know where to start!' comes to mind. So I shall start with the huge gothic Basilica of Santa Anastasia not the oldest but the largest.

Basilica of Santa Anastasia
The church was erected by the Dominicans between the years 1289 and 1481, so it stretches between Romanesque and the Gothic period of architecture. The origin of the word 'basilica' comes from the Greek meaning 'house of the king' but today it is used in the Constantine tradition – 'a very large and public church to house many hundreds of people.' There are two doors at the front of the church of equal size; there is no large central door for a procession of Bishops. The interior houses many works of medieval art. There is a masterpiece of cavalleresco gothic (1380). This is a fresco by Altchiero in the Giusti Chapel. There is also a famous fresco 'San Giorgio freeing the princess' by Pisanello. The basilica has three naves that are separated by large columns supporting Gothic capitals and pointed arches; the transept houses five chapels. Photos are not allowed inside the basilica but if you buy the guide you can get photos of the two carved 'hunchbacks' holding holy water stoups.

Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore
St. Zeno was one of the first bishops of Verona. The basilica, like so many churches, started life as a simple church over the tomb of this saint. The bishop was of African origin and died in 372. He was made the patron saint of Verona in the 8th century and his body was transferred to the church of his name in 807 and lies within a crypt. In the 9th century a new temple was made but this was badly damaged by an earthquake, probably by the same earthquake of 1117 that damaged the Arena and so this in turn was enlarged into the basilica between 1120 and 1138. The church is seen as one of the finest masterpieces of Italian Romanesque architecture in the whole of Italy. In the photo you can see the ivory-coloured façade and fine rose window, if you look carefully you can see that the façade has small double lancet windows. The portal is thirteenth century and the work of Niccolo and his assistant, in the lunette (semi-circle over the door) there is an effigy of St Zeno blessing soldiers. The inside of the church is breathtaking in its beauty and simple magnificence.

Duomo (Cathedral)
The cathedral has been redesigned over the centuries; the architect responsible for the 12th century design was Master Nicolo. He designed the portal and lunette, which is a bas-relief of the Madonna and Child. The site that the 12th century cathedral was built on was a late medieval church. The bell tower was built in stages, the lower part dates back to the 13th century, the middle part to the 16th century and the upper part the 20th century, what you may call slow progress; but for a building that is meant to last forever does it really matter?

The Mazzanti chapel houses the tomb of Saint Agatha. This Saint was a virgin martyred in Sicily in 251A.D. It is said that the pagan Consul of Sicily tried to seduce her and when he failed, had her sent to a brothel where she was martyred by having both her breasts cut off. She is said to have asked Saint Peter to take her up to heaven, which he reportedly did. She is the Patron Saint of the Knights of Malta and is always called upon against fire and the eruptions of Mt. Etna.
Inside the Cathedral the apse (a semicircular section of the church near the choir) contains frescoes by Torbido showing the 'Annunciation, Episodes in the Life of Mary and The Prophets' this is 16th century. The Cathedral also houses the Titian masterpiece 'Our Lady of the Assumption' painted in 1530. The Cathedral has a Chapter Library , and a Canonical Museum.

Church of Saint Elena
Going from the large to the small, this little church was built in the 12th century and once again it was built on the ruins of an early building, this time of the 9th century. Dante Alighieri is said to have spoken there on 'the question of water and earth'. Dante Alighieri (1265-1321) was the greatest of Italian poets; he died after writing the 'Divine Comedy'.

Church of San Giovanni in Fonte
This very small church was once the baptistery of the Cathedral, the building that is in use today is dated 1123 but the origins go back to an older church.

Church of Santa Maria Antica
This church is in Veronese Romanesque architecture and was built in the 7th century A.D. and was modified at the end of the 12th century. If you look at the photograph you will notice that both stone and brick are used. Just above the doorway you will see a tomb; this is the sepulchral of Cangrande 1 Della Scala (1291-1329).

The Della Scala Family were the rulers of Verona. In the photograph of the tombs (the tombs are just outside the church) we have the tomb of Mastino 2 and the tomb of Cansignorio (the most striking of the two). This very rich and powerful family built the church, the family cemetery and the family residence.

There are many, more churches both great and small in Verona, I have only touched on a few of them, but in the few I have written about I hope I have given you a brief introduction into the beauty and splendour of these magnificent buildings.