Flea Control and Prevention

by Race Foster, DVM and Marty Smith, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

When it comes to fleas, prevention is the key. Ask anyone who has had a flea problem - they are now strong advocates of prevention. Controlling and eliminating an already existing flea problem takes a lot of time and effort. And it can become quite expensive if any of the steps are overlooked.

There is no successful flea control program that does not involve treating the environment.

Attempting to control flea numbers on our dogs and cats is a multi-step process. Adult fleas spend most of their time on an animal, but the flea eggs, larvae and pupae are found in abundance in the environment such as in carpeting, rugs, bedding, and grass. There is no successful flea control program that does not involve treating the environment. To have a successful flea control program we must:

• Remove the fleas from the indoor environment
• Remove the fleas from the outdoor environment
• Remove the fleas from the pets
• Keep the fleas away

Flea control is complicated by the fact that there are many wild animals which serve as "reservoirs" for flea populations. Cat fleas can infest over 50 species of animals worldwide. In the United States, coyotes, fox, raccoons, some rodent species, skunks, opossums, raccoons and ferrets can all harbor cat fleas. Flea control is also hampered by the evidence that some fleas are developing resistance to some of our flea control products, especially organophosphates.

You may think you have eliminated all the fleas, when suddenly they are back. This may not be due to anything you are doing wrong. It may be that a number of pupae that have been lying dormant have hatched. Remember, the pupal stage of the flea can lie dormant for months, is protected by its cocoon, and is resistant to most of the insecticides. You will need to keep treating the environment and your pet until all of these pupal stages have hatched.

Ingredients of flea control products can vary and include adulticides, chemicals that can kill immature forms, insect growth regulators/development inhibitors, or combinations thereof. The choice of products will need to be based on the extent of the flea infestation; the species, breed, health status and age of the pet; the environment; presence of other pets; and special family needs (e.g., infants, people with asthma).

Flea control in the indoor environment

Indoor flea control involves mechanically removing all stages of the fleas, killing any remaining adults and preventing immature forms from developing.

• To mechanically remove all stages of fleas, vacuum thoroughly, especially where your pet sleeps. When you are through, enclose your vacuum bag in a plastic bag and discard it immediately. Vacuuming must be ongoing - daily in high traffic areas and weekly in others. It is estimated that vacuuming can remove as many as 50% of the flea eggs. Do NOT place moth balls or flea collars in the vacuum since toxic fumes could result.

• Use an adulticide to kill remaining adult fleas. This can be in the form of carpet powders, foggers, or sprays. Sometimes combinations of these products need to be used. Foggers are especially good for large open areas. Surface sprays can reach areas such as baseboards, moldings, cracks, under furniture and other areas foggers can not reach. Choose the product(s) you use with care, taking into account the presence of children, fish, birds, persons with asthma, etc. Your veterinarian can help you choose the appropriate products for your situation. In severe infestations, you may need the help of a professional exterminator.

• To stop the development of immature forms you will need to use sprays and foggers which contain an insect growth regulator such as Nylar. Many sprays and foggers contain both an adulticide and an insect growth regulator.

• Remember to wash your pet's bedding weekly and to treat the area with an insect growth regulator and possibly an adulticide.

• Don't forget to also clean and treat your automobile, pet carrier, garage, basement or any other place your pet spends an appreciable length of time.

Flea control in the outdoor environment

Flea control in the outdoor environment generally involves treating the yard and kennel areas where fleas are most likely to occur. Fleas tend to like it where it is moist, warm, shady, and where there is organic debris. They will also tend to be where pets spend more of their outdoor time. So be sure to concentrate on areas such as patios, under porches, dog houses, etc.

Rake away any organic debris such as leaves, straw, grass clippings, etc. to disturb flea habitat and allow any flea and tick product you use outdoors to penetrate.

If you are going to treat your yard, we prefer an environmentally safe spray containing fenvalerate such as Drs. Foster and Smith Premium Lawn Spray for this purpose. There are also sprays which contain insect growth regulators which can be used.

You may need to treat the yard every 10 to 30 days depending on the product. Regardless of the product used, remember not to spray when or where runoff could go into lakes or rivers. Read the label on all insecticides thoroughly and apply them as directed.

Flea control on your pet

There are multiple ways to apply the flea and tick control products to your pet including once-a-month topical products, sprays, powders, dips, shampoos, collars, and oral or injectable products.

It is perfectly normal to see live fleas on a pet immediately after spraying, shampooing, dipping, etc. It has to happen for the products to be effective.

With any product applied directly to the pet, please remember that the fleas must get on the pet, feed on and/or walk through the hair of the pet to become contaminated with the insecticide. They will then jump off the pet and die in the grass or carpet. It is perfectly normal to see live fleas on a pet immediately after spraying, shampooing, dipping, etc. It has to happen for the products to be effective. Many times this is confused with the products not working. As long as fleas are in your area you will and should expect to see them, even on the treated pet. Their appearance may continue for days, weeks, or months depending on the remaining flea population. The same is true with flea collars, where you can expect to see fleas directly under the collar. Again, this has to happen. Think of it as a restaurant trying to poison its patrons. They must come in contact and absorb the insecticide before they will be affected.

Once-a-month Topicals: Once-a-month topical insecticides are applied to a small area on the back of the pet, are probably the easiest product to use, and generally last the longest. Some kill fleas and ticks, and others just fleas. Some contain insect growth regulators in addition to insecticides, so check the label carefully. Examples: BioSpot, Advantage, Frontline TopSpot, and Defend.

Sprays: Flea and tick control sprays can come as aerosols or pump bottles. Most cats prefer the pump bottles, since the hiss from the aerosols may sound too much like the hiss of another cat. If you are going to use an aerosol spray on a cat, it may be helpful to spray a cloth with the product (away from the cat), and then rub the cat with the cloth. When using a spray, you do not have to soak the pet with the spray, but be sure to spray all parts of the animal. Spray a small amount on a cotton ball to apply the product around the eyes and ears. Do not get any of these products in the eyes. Follow your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions on how often to spray, and spray in a well-ventilated area.

Powders: Powders are generally easy to apply but can create a mess. If you or your pet has asthma, powders may not be the best choice of product since the powder could be inhaled. Be sure to use powders in well-ventilated areas.

Dips: Dips and rinses are applied to the entire animal. They generally have some residual activity. They should be applied in a well-ventilated area according to your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions. It is helpful to put cotton balls in the pet's ears and ophthalmic ointment in the pet's eyes. Even with these precautions, be very careful not to get any of the product in the pet's ears or eyes.

Shampoos: Shampoos help to primarily rid the pet of the fleas it already has on it, although some have residual activity. To properly use a flea & tick shampoo you must be sure to work the shampoo in over the entire body and then leave it on at least 10 minutes before you rinse it off. This is true of almost any medicated shampoo. Again, remember to protect the eyes and ears of the pet. (HINT: Cats often do not like running water. It is often better to pour water over a cat with a large pitcher, rather than spray it.)

Collars: Collars can be effective, but must be applied properly. To get the right degree of snugness, you should just be able to get two fingers between the collar and the neck of your pet. Be sure to cut off any excess portion of the collar after you have properly applied it. Otherwise that animal or other pets may try to chew on the end. Check the package for information on duration of effectiveness since many collars lose effectiveness when they get wet, e.g., if your dog swims a lot. Watch carefully for any irritation under the collar. If this occurs you may need to use a different product.

Oral and Injectable Products: A product containing an insect development inhibitor is available as a tablet for cats and dogs and as an injectable for cats. The tablets are given once a month; the injection is given every 6 months. Remember these products do not kill the adult fleas, so if you have fleas, you MUST also use something to kill the adults.

Flea combs: Flea combs are often overlooked as a valuable tool in removing fleas. They are absolutely non-toxic and are the best method to use on ill, pregnant or infant pets. Be sure to choose a comb that has 32 teeth/inch. Comb your pet and then place the fleas you comb off in detergent water, which will kill them. The disadvantage to flea combing is that it takes a considerable amount of time, and will not be effective in pets that have flea bite hypersensitivity.

Keeping fleas away (getting the fleas to flee)

PREVENTION PREVENTION PREVENTION

The best flea control is always flea prevention. Repellents are a cornerstone of prevention. Pyrethrins and permethrins have flea repellent activity. Using products containing these insecticides will help keep fleas away and prevent a flea problem from developing.

Regular use of insect growth regulators/development inhibitors will reduce the risk of fleas becoming established in the indoor and outdoor environment.

Before they are allowed in their house or kennel areas, pets should be given a flea bath after they have been boarded, played with pets from other households, or visited places where other animals have been (e.g. dog parks).

If there is a severe problem in your geographical area (some areas in the southern United States), treating the environment with pyrethroid-containing compounds may be indicated.

© 2000 Drs. Foster and Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208