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"New Choices in Natural Healing for Dogs & Cats"

Comprehensive guide to drug-free options for your cat or dog Practical tips for treating health andbehavioral problems



"Dr Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health"

This updated edition is the #1 Natural Health Pet Book Dr Pitcairn covers every facet of pet nutrition and treatment

 

 

Fleas -- 19 Ways to Foil Them
A Rodale Press contribution

See that itsy flea on your itchy pet? Well, you ain't seen nothing yet. Within the next month, that flea (with a little help from her girlfriends) could fill your house with up to 250,000 descendants.

What's more, for every flea you see on your pet, you can bet there are up to 100 more, in one form or another, that are not on your pet -- they're in the yard, on the floors and in the linen, says Michael Dryden, D.V.M., Ph.D., associate professor of veterinary parasitology at the Kansas State University College of Veterinary Medicine in Manhattan, Kansas. "It can be quite daunting."

The little pests can be incredibly difficult to get rid of. In fact, you may never be able to eradicate them 100 percent from your house or yard. But you can still prevent your pet from going buggy from fleas. "You have to realize it's a never-ending battle, but if you're diligent, you can win," says Philip Kass, D.V.M., Ph.D., associate professor of epidemiology at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine. Here's what you need to do.

For Dogs and Cats

Begin with a bath. If your pet is willing to climb into the bathtub, washing his coat with a gentle, non-medicated pet shampoo will send many fleas right down the drain, says Pete Schaubhut, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in New York City. If he's still scratching after his first bath, try again, this time using a flea shampoo.

When washing cats -- assuming yours is one of those rare felines that will actually let you do it -- use only shampoos designed especially for them. A product that's safe for dogs could be dangerous when used on cats, warns Dr. Kass. Check the label first. (For tips on bathing cats, see "How to Give Your Cat a Bath".)

Or keep him high and dry. As an alternative to bathing, try using a "dry" shampoo, one that foams without water. "It's better if your pet will tolerate a real shampoo, but this is certainly better than not bathing him at all," says Dr. Kass.

Again, when treating cats, be sure to check the label to make sure the shampoo is feline-friendly.

Use herbs to perturb. Mixing a few drops of pennyroyal or eucalyptus oil into your pet's usual shampoo will help repel fleas, says Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M., Ph.D., a veterinarian in private practice in Eugene, Oregon, and author of Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health For Dogs and Cats. Undiluted pennyroyal oil can be toxic, though, so it should never be used full-strength.

Give him a good grooming. Pulling a flea comb through your pet's coat once a day will help keep the critters away, says Dr. Kass. Between strokes, dip the comb in a bowl of soapy water to drown any fleas that may be hanging on.

Give your pet bad taste. "Blecch!" is what you want fleas to think when they bite into your pet. One way to taint their taste buds is to mix a little garlic and brewer's yeast into your pet's breakfast. Many pets like the taste, so you won't have to disguise it. "It may very well make the animal unappetizing," says Dr. Schaubhut.

Choose collars carefully. Traditional flea collars impregnated with insecticides can't always handle heavy infestations. In addition, they can be irritating to your pet's skin, says Dr. Dryden. A better bet might be to buy a collar that contains a synthetic flea-controlling hormone like methoprene. "They're virtually nontoxic to mammals, and they sterilize flea eggs before they can roll off and continue the life cycle," Dr. Dryden says.

In the warm months when fleas thrive, you may be tempted to buy an electronic, ultrasonic flea collar with all the bells and whistles. "Don't waste your money," advises Dr. Dryden. Not only are the collars not effective, they emit sounds that may be within the hearing range of cats and dogs and could be annoying.

Use sprays to keep them at bay. Treating your pet's coat with flea spray will quickly wipe out any visitors that may be dining in. There's a variety of products to choose from. Those containing the insecticides D-limonene or pyrethrins (made from chrysanthemums) are effective and less toxic than some other sprays, says Dr. Kass. You can also buy sprays containing methoprene.

When spraying your pet, be sure to keep insecticide out of his eyes, ears, nose and mouth. You can do this by spritzing a square of gauze and using it to apply the insecticide to his face. Since many cats will run from the hissing sound of spray bottles, you may have to treat them entirely with moistened gauze.

When buying any insecticide, make sure the label specifies that it's safe for your pet, warns Dr. Kass. Sprays that are safe for dogs can be extremely dangerous for cats.

Powder him from head to toes. Flea powders aren't usually as effective as sprays, but they still can play an important role in flea control. Powder your pet from his neck to his feet, and don't forget the tail. Then work the powder down close to the skin with a comb or brush.

When powdering his face, put tiny amounts of powder on your fingertips and gently work it in, avoiding the area around the eyes and nose, says Dr. Kass.

Go for a dip. More potent than sprays or powders, flea dip -- an insecticide solution in which you immerse your pet -- can provide long-lasting protection. "In bad infestations they may be necessary, but use them with caution," warns Dr. Kass. "And read the labels carefully. Dips that are okay for dogs can be deadly for cats."

Bring out the artillery. When fleas are showing up in record numbers, you may need to treat the entire house with a house fogger, says Dr. Dryden. He recommends using products containing methoprene or fenoxycarb, another flea-controlling hormone. Insecticides containing pyrethrins are also safe and effective, says Dr. Kass.

Do 'em in with diatoms. Also known as diatomaceous earth or chinchilla dust, these microscopic algae are safe alternatives to insecticides. They absorb a flea's waxy coating, causing it to dry up and die, says Tanya Drlik, pest management specialist at Bio-Integral Resource Center, a nonprofit group that researches pesticide alternatives, in Berkeley, California.

Sprinkle the diatomaceous earth on carpeting and upholstered furniture. You can also sweep it into cracks and crevices around baseboards by using a small hand duster. Wear a dust mask and goggles so the tiny particles don't drift into your lungs or eyes. Work them in with a broom, then vacuum them up a few days later, Drlik says.

Diatoms, are inactivated by water, so they can be used only indoors, she says. Be sure to use amorphous diatomaceous earth, Drlik adds. The glassified diatomaceous earth used for swimming pool filters isn't effective against fleas and can be harmful if inhaled.

Suck 'em up. "Vacuuming at least once a week is an extremely effective, nontoxic way to keep the flea population down," says Drlik.

Concentrate on areas where your pet spends lots of time, like around his bedding. Be sure to vacuum cracks, crevices and baseboards, and spend plenty of time on rugs, says Drlik.

Hit them when they're down. To prevent voracious fleas from emerging from your Hoover, remove the bag, seal it securely in plastic and place it in the freezer or in direct sunlight. The extreme temperature -- either cold or heat -- will help kill the fleas, Drlik says.

Take away their hiding places. "The more clutter in your home, the more places there are for fleas to escape your attempts to get rid of them," says Robert Hilsenroth, D.V.M., executive director of the Morris Animal Foundation in Englewood, Colorado. "Keep floors as clear of things like boxes, toys and books as possible."

Lay a trap. Wherever fleas are a problem, plug in a night light and put a wide pan partially filled with water underneath. (A lasagna pan will do nicely.) Since fleas are attracted to warmth, some will leap toward the light -- and make a splashdown in the water, where they'll drown, says Mary L. Brennan, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Atlanta and co-author of The Natural Dog: A Complete Guide for Caring Owners. This won't solve your problem, but in the war against fleas, every body counts.

Limit the rooms where your pet roams. "The fewer rooms your pet has access to, the fewer rooms you'll have to worry about," says Drlik. "Shutting a few doors probably isn't going to upset your pet too much, and it could save you lots of work."

Make it laundry day. Washing your pet's bedding at least once a week will help keep fleas at bay, says Dr. Pitcairn.

If your pet sleeps on a pad or thick bed that's tough to wash, get in the habit of protecting it with a small sheet or a large towel that you can wash once a week. When you remove the towel, however, be sure to roll it up carefully in order to trap fleas and their eggs. "Otherwise they can fall off and scatter everywhere," says Dr. Pitcairn.

Practice car care. If you take your pet on trips, cover the area where he sits with a sheet that can be washed regularly, says George G. Doering, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Walnut Creek, California, who specializes in dermatology. "There's nothing like a car full of fleas," he says.

It's a good idea to vacuum the car frequently, and you may also have to bomb it periodically with a household flea spray.

Use worms to make 'em squirm. To control yard infestations, many experts recommend using nematodes -- microscopic worms that prey on the larvae and pupae of many insects, including fleas, says Dr. Dryden.

Nematodes are available at pet and garden stores (a 300-gram canister contains about 100 million little worms). Following the directions on the label, just put them in a hose sprayer and blast away, taking particular aim at damp, shaded areas where fleas thrive, says Dr. Dryden. When the fleas disappear, so will the nematodes.

Retirn to top of page

Panel of Advisers

Mary L. Brennan, D.V.M., is a veterinarian in private practice in Atlanta and co-author of The Natural Dog: A Complete Guide for Caring Owners.

George G. Doering, D.V.M., is a veterinary dermatologist in private practice in Walnut Creek, California.

Tanya Drlik is a pest management specialist at Bio-Integral Resource Center, a nonprofit group that researches pesticide alternatives, in Berkeley, California.

Michael Dryden, D.V.M., Ph.D., is associate professor of veterinary parasitology at the Kansas State University College of Veterinary Medicine in Manhattan, Kansas.

Carol Emsley is a pet groomer at Blue Ribbon Groomer in Livonia, Michigan, and a member of the board of directors of the American Grooming Shop Association.

Robert Hilsenroth, D.V.M., is executive director of the Morris Animal Foundation in Englewood, Colorado.

Philip Kass, D.V.M., Ph.D., is associate professor of epidemiology at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine.

Dawn Logas, D.V.M., is assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine in Gainesville.

Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M., Ph.D., is a veterinarian in private practice in Eugene, Oregon, and author of Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health For Dogs and Cats.

Pete Schaubhut, D.V.M., is a veterinarian in private practice in New York City.


Copyright © 1996 by Rodale Press, Inc.


Bio Spot Flea & Tick Control for Dogs
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Each application of Bio Spot kills and repels adult fleas and ticks kills flea eggs and larvae and protects against blood feeding by mosquitoes for dogs age 12 weeks and older


Flea-Free Elevated Dog Beds by Snooza
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Gentle Water-Based Flea & Tick Mist Ideal for dogs and cats with sensitive skin Can be used on puppies and kittens 12 weeks and older


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