| Flea
Control and Prevention
by Race Foster,
DVM and Marty Smith, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
When it comes
to fleas, prevention is the key. Ask anyone who has had a flea
problem - they are now strong advocates of prevention. Controlling
and eliminating an already existing flea problem takes a lot of
time and effort. And it can become quite expensive if any of the
steps are overlooked.
There is no
successful flea control program that does not involve treating
the environment.
Attempting
to control flea numbers on our dogs and cats is a multi-step process.
Adult fleas spend most of their time on an animal, but the flea
eggs, larvae and pupae are found in abundance in the environment
such as in carpeting, rugs, bedding, and grass. There is no successful
flea control program that does not involve treating the environment.
To have a successful flea control program we must:
Flea control
is complicated by the fact that there are many wild animals which
serve as "reservoirs" for flea populations. Cat fleas can infest
over 50 species of animals worldwide. In the United States, coyotes,
fox, raccoons, some rodent species, skunks, opossums, raccoons
and ferrets can all harbor cat fleas. Flea control is also hampered
by the evidence that some fleas are developing resistance to some
of our flea control products, especially organophosphates.
You may think
you have eliminated all the fleas, when suddenly they are back.
This may not be due to anything you are doing wrong. It may be
that a number of pupae that have been lying dormant have hatched.
Remember, the pupal stage of the flea can lie dormant for months,
is protected by its cocoon, and is resistant to most of the insecticides.
You will need to keep treating the environment and your pet until
all of these pupal stages have hatched.
Ingredients
of flea control products can vary and include adulticides, chemicals
that can kill immature forms, insect growth regulators/development
inhibitors, or combinations thereof. The choice of products will
need to be based on the extent of the flea infestation; the species,
breed, health status and age of the pet; the environment; presence
of other pets; and special family needs (e.g., infants, people
with asthma).
Flea
control in the indoor environment
Indoor flea
control involves mechanically removing all stages of the fleas,
killing any remaining adults and preventing immature forms from
developing.
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To mechanically
remove all stages of fleas, vacuum thoroughly, especially
where your pet sleeps. When you are through, enclose your
vacuum bag in a plastic bag and discard it immediately. Vacuuming
must be ongoing - daily in high traffic areas and weekly in
others. It is estimated that vacuuming can remove as many
as 50% of the flea eggs. Do NOT place moth balls
or flea collars in the vacuum since toxic fumes could result.
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Use an
adulticide to kill remaining adult fleas. This can be in the
form of carpet powders, foggers, or sprays. Sometimes combinations
of these products need to be used. Foggers are especially
good for large open areas. Surface sprays can reach areas
such as baseboards, moldings, cracks, under furniture and
other areas foggers can not reach. Choose the product(s) you
use with care, taking into account the presence of children,
fish, birds, persons with asthma, etc. Your veterinarian can
help you choose the appropriate products for your situation.
In severe infestations, you may need the help of a professional
exterminator.
-
To stop
the development of immature forms you will need to use sprays
and foggers which contain an insect growth regulator
such as Nylar. Many sprays and foggers contain both an adulticide
and an insect growth regulator.
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Remember
to wash your pet's bedding weekly and to treat the area with
an insect growth regulator and possibly an adulticide.
-
Don't
forget to also clean and treat your automobile, pet carrier,
garage, basement or any other place your pet spends an appreciable
length of time.
Flea
control in the outdoor environment
Flea control
in the outdoor environment generally involves treating the yard
and kennel areas where fleas are most likely to occur. Fleas tend
to like it where it is moist, warm, shady, and where there is
organic debris. They will also tend to be where pets spend more
of their outdoor time. So be sure to concentrate on areas such
as patios, under porches, dog houses, etc.
Rake away
any organic debris such as leaves, straw, grass clippings, etc.
to disturb flea habitat and allow any flea and tick product you
use outdoors to penetrate.
If you are
going to treat your yard, we prefer an environmentally safe spray
containing fenvalerate such as Drs. Foster and Smith Premium Lawn
Spray for this purpose. There are also sprays which contain insect
growth regulators which can be used.
You may need
to treat the yard every 10 to 30 days depending on the product.
Regardless of the product used, remember not to spray when or
where runoff could go into lakes or rivers. Read the label on
all insecticides thoroughly and apply them as directed.
Flea
control on your pet
There are
multiple ways to apply the flea and tick control products to your
pet including once-a-month topical products, sprays, powders,
dips, shampoos, collars, and oral or injectable products.
It is perfectly
normal to see live fleas on a pet immediately after spraying,
shampooing, dipping, etc. It has to happen for the products to
be effective.
With any product
applied directly to the pet, please remember that the fleas must
get on the pet, feed on and/or walk through the hair of the pet
to become contaminated with the insecticide. They will then jump
off the pet and die in the grass or carpet. It is perfectly normal
to see live fleas on a pet immediately after spraying, shampooing,
dipping, etc. It has to happen for the products to be effective.
Many times this is confused with the products not working. As
long as fleas are in your area you will and should expect to see
them, even on the treated pet. Their appearance may continue for
days, weeks, or months depending on the remaining flea population.
The same is true with flea collars, where you can expect to see
fleas directly under the collar. Again, this has to happen. Think
of it as a restaurant trying to poison its patrons. They must
come in contact and absorb the insecticide before they will be
affected.
Once-a-month
Topicals: Once-a-month topical insecticides are applied to
a small area on the back of the pet, are probably the easiest
product to use, and generally last the longest. Some kill fleas
and ticks, and others just fleas. Some contain insect growth regulators
in addition to insecticides, so check the label carefully. Examples:
BioSpot, Advantage, Frontline TopSpot, and Defend.
Sprays:
Flea and tick control sprays can come as aerosols or pump bottles.
Most cats prefer the pump bottles, since the hiss from the aerosols
may sound too much like the hiss of another cat. If you are going
to use an aerosol spray on a cat, it may be helpful to spray a
cloth with the product (away from the cat), and then rub the cat
with the cloth. When using a spray, you do not have to soak the
pet with the spray, but be sure to spray all parts of the animal.
Spray a small amount on a cotton ball to apply the product around
the eyes and ears. Do not get any of these products in the eyes.
Follow your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions on
how often to spray, and spray in a well-ventilated area.
Powders:
Powders are generally easy to apply but can create a mess. If
you or your pet has asthma, powders may not be the best choice
of product since the powder could be inhaled. Be sure to use powders
in well-ventilated areas.
Dips:
Dips and rinses are applied to the entire animal. They generally
have some residual activity. They should be applied in a well-ventilated
area according to your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions.
It is helpful to put cotton balls in the pet's ears and ophthalmic
ointment in the pet's eyes. Even with these precautions, be very
careful not to get any of the product in the pet's ears or eyes.
Shampoos:
Shampoos help to primarily rid the pet of the fleas it already
has on it, although some have residual activity. To properly use
a flea & tick shampoo you must be sure to work the shampoo in
over the entire body and then leave it on at least 10 minutes
before you rinse it off. This is true of almost any medicated
shampoo. Again, remember to protect the eyes and ears of the pet.
(HINT: Cats often do not like running water. It is
often better to pour water over a cat with a large
pitcher, rather than spray it.)
Collars:
Collars can be effective, but must be applied properly. To get
the right degree of snugness, you should just be able to get two
fingers between the collar and the neck of your pet. Be sure to
cut off any excess portion of the collar after you have properly
applied it. Otherwise that animal or other pets may try to chew
on the end. Check the package for information on duration of effectiveness
since many collars lose effectiveness when they get wet, e.g.,
if your dog swims a lot. Watch carefully for any irritation under
the collar. If this occurs you may need to use a different product.
Oral and
Injectable Products: A product containing an insect development
inhibitor is available as a tablet for cats and dogs and as an
injectable for cats. The tablets are given once a month; the injection
is given every 6 months. Remember these products do not kill the
adult fleas, so if you have fleas, you MUST also use something
to kill the adults.
Flea combs:
Flea combs are often overlooked as a valuable tool in removing
fleas. They are absolutely non-toxic and are the best method to
use on ill, pregnant or infant pets. Be sure to choose a comb
that has 32 teeth/inch. Comb your pet and then place the fleas
you comb off in detergent water, which will kill them. The disadvantage
to flea combing is that it takes a considerable amount of time,
and will not be effective in pets that have flea bite hypersensitivity.
Keeping
fleas away (getting the fleas to flee)
PREVENTION
PREVENTION PREVENTION
The best flea
control is always flea prevention. Repellents are a cornerstone
of prevention. Pyrethrins and permethrins
have flea repellent activity. Using products containing these
insecticides will help keep fleas away and prevent a flea problem
from developing.
Regular use
of insect growth regulators/development inhibitors will reduce
the risk of fleas becoming established in the indoor and outdoor
environment.
Before they
are allowed in their house or kennel areas, pets should be given
a flea bath after they have been boarded, played with pets from
other households, or visited places where other animals have been
(e.g. dog parks).
If there is
a severe problem in your geographical area (some areas in the
southern United States), treating the environment with pyrethroid-containing
compounds may be indicated.
©
2000 Drs. Foster and Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com
(http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208
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